8.24.2007

Nic can't post right now because of the Great Firewall

Nic can't post right now because of the Great Firewall

This is Ian posting to Nic's blog because he's in China and can't post right now - For more information on the Great Firewall - visit Wikipedia - Article Here Once he leaves China controlled internet, I'm sure we'll hear from him sooner or later...

8.13.2007

So, my nine-day tour of Central Mongolia, including Kharkhorin, the ancient capital of the Mongolian Empire and a three-day horse-tour of the 8-lakes region is complete. Within two hours of arriving back in Ulan-Bator I began gearing up for a 9-day trip to the South Gobi... I leave at 8AM tomorrow morning and will be back in UB late on the 22nd, just in time to get a good nights sleep in a "real" (i.e. Hostel dorm) bed and hop on a two-day-long train/sleeper-bus connection to Beijing that leaves in the evening of the 23rd. It's 12:30 right now and I still need to finish packing... I'll do what I can to fill everyone in on what I've been doing for the last 2 weeks...

My "tour group" which included myself, Miquel, a Spaniard, Dan, an American, Carlo and Liat respectively Italian and Israeli, on their honeymoon, and our driver, Sagi, a local Mongolian from Ulan-Bator (UB) whose wife was in hospital about to deliver their first child on the day we left UB. (*NOTE* I still can't figure out how to spell Sagi's name. It's pronounced "Sahg-ee")

(Below: (Left to Right) Myself, Dan, Miquel, Carlo, Sagi and Liat. Out-of-focus photo taken by some poor soul at the hostel who was awake for our 5AM departure.)

A few of our adventures along the road included climbing a Mongolian "Mountain" to take a look at some wild horses in Hustai National Park, hanging out with a young boy on the side of the road who had "caught" an eagle, spending three days on horse in the 8-lakes area (Note: Mongolian horses are very, very small. I walked a lot.), having my tent attecked (read: trampled on and eaten) by a herd of Yaks at 5AM, and having our van break down more times than I can count.


(Below: Miquel looking very much like Indiana Jones. The Tilley hat is mine and I'm quite upset that it looks better on Miquel then on me.)

(Below: A boy and his eagle. Touching really. Shortly after this was taken a two van-loads of Chinese (perhaps Korean?) tourists showed up and swamped the pair with cameras and flashes.)
(Below: Miquel's comment: "They are Yaks." Do I need to say more? (Miquel is the one on the right.))

(Below: A view from the same campsite as the Yak attack. It's not all bad.)

(Below: You don't want your van to break down here. Ours did.)

(Below: A taxi-stand in Tsetserleg, a regional capital several hundred km due WEST of Ulan-Bator.)

This is posted, again, with apologies for such a short update, but I figured a short update was better than none at all.

8.02.2007

This... This could be interesting...

This is just a brief note to let everyone know that I won't be posting for a couple of weeks. I've arrived safe and sound in UB (though managed to nearly get myself deported from Mongolia before I even got off the train... All's well that ends well though... )... Anyway... a few friensd and I are renting a van and heading deep into the Western Mongolian wilderness. We'll be gone for at least 9 days. Following that I may, or may not, be heading South into the Gobi... The short version is that I won't have 'net access for quite a while, but I *WILL* have some interesting updates for you guys when I get back.

For those interested in doing more research, I'll be heading into the 8-lakes and White Lake regions, almost due East of Ulan-Bator.

[2007-08-13:CORRECTION: The 8-lakes and White Lake areas are due WEST of Ulan-Bator, not due East, as stated. This is what I get for rattling off a blog post at 6AM on only two hours of sleep...]

7.30.2007

The Wild Wild East...

Irkutsk is, as one of my former editors put it, The Paris of Siberia... It's an oddly accurate description really. Despite the fact that the city itself has almost nothing to offer even the most dedicated and adventurous tourist, it is, in it's own strange and unqiue way, quite an interesting town... I've spent nearly a week here, based out of either Irkutsk itself, or, for three nights, Olkhon Island, which is 350 hundred kilometers north of here and takes somewhere between 6 and 8 hours to reach by bus, depending on how adept the driver is at dodging potholes and cows, both of which can be found in great abundance on the dirt roads of Siberia... The bus trip north was, for the most part, uneventful, though I did manage to make myself a new friend on the way. Karolina, a Polish girl who's travelling exploits make mine, to date, look quite meager, was sitting behind me on the bus. She was the only other English-speaker on the bus at the start of the trip (Not counting a pair of Quebecois who made it fairly clear they were "from Quebec, not Canada" and didn't like Canadian anglophones) and we managed to become decent friends over the course of the trip. Being a linguistics student, Karolina's Russian skills are, to say the least, far superior to my own; we spent the better part of two days bumming around on beaches and hiking the island before she had to return to Irkutsk to catch a train to Mongolia. We're planning on meeting up and getting a group together for some tours in Ulan-Bator once I get there...

(Below: One slighly crazy Polish polyglot on a ferry dock. I would have been lost on Olkhon without Karolina's help translating. My Russian is so poor that it would often send the locals (and Karolina) into fits of laughter whenever I tried to order a drink, let alone a meal involving more than one type of food.)

Olkhon Island was fascinating in it's own way. Most of my time was spent in the village of Khuzir, located about halfway up the western side of the island. The town is at once extremely primitive and quite advanced (by Siberian standards); electricity was only brought in in 2005, and running water is still, if you'll pardon the pun, a pipe-dream. The room I stayed in was a small three-bedroom (though I had the place to myself) on the very edge of town. A quick step out my door and I was looking at a radio tower, then nothing but barren hills and sparse pine forrest as far as I could see. The toilet was a not-so-deep pit in the ground, with a wooden board and a hole cut in it. Cows roam freely through the streets (The farmers here haven't yet found any good reason to put them behind fences, and for the most part they do quite a good job of eating weeds and anything else left on the dirt roads of the town.) On my second day in town I opened my laptop to download some pictures and was pleased to find that, for the first time since leaving Moscow, I had a wifi connection to the internet, courtesy of one of the nearby houses...

(Below: A typical, though somewhat isolated, Olkhon outhouse.)


(Below: A view of the bluffs near Khuzir, as seen from Shaman's Rock.)

Olkhon Island itself, outside of Khuzir that is, is truly one of the most beautiful places I've seen in a very long time. I'd even go so far as to say that Siberia (the parts away from cities at least) rivals B.C. for natural beuaty... Long white-sand beaches, open plains, forrests, and even small mountains (or large hills, depending on who you ask) cover the place. There are also many, many cows.

(Below: Here a cow, there a cow... Note the tents and beach in the background. It's not uncommon to wake up on Olkhon with a cow in one's front yard.)


(Below: Enjoying a sunset from the Khuzir Bluffs, is one of the more popular evening activities on Olkhon Island...)

Since returning from the island my time in Irkutsk has been largely spent exploring out-of-the-way places, including several streets full of old wooden houses (quite a rarity in Russia), most of which were built by, or for, exiled Decemberists in the early/mid-1800's. (I forgot to put pictures of the houses on my USB Drive before leaving my hostel this morning, but will post a few pictures once I get to Mongolia...) I'm currently killing time (This blog is good for something, right?) before hopping on a train to Mongolia...



(Note: This post is titled with apologies to Karolina for stealing "Wild Wild East" from her.)

7.24.2007

4 days, 5000km, 7 new friends, no showers... That's one long train trip...

Seeing as how there's been a distinct lack of pictures lately, I'll start this post by throwing up a few shots from St. Petersburg and Moscow... I've talked about both in previous posts, but words really don't do the places justice...

(Below: One of the more historically interesting (to me) places that I visited in Moscow, the Lubyanka, former KGB headquarters. There's an old Russian joke that says the Lubyanka is the tallest building in all of Moscow because you can see Siberia from the basement... It's funny now, but perhaps not so much 30 years ago...)

(Below: A view looking up a canal at Peterhof Palace, just outside of St. Petersburg. The place was created largely by Peter the Great and is really a collection of palaces, gardens, fountains, forrests, and pretty much anything else you can imagine.)
Since departing St. Petersburg I've managed to successfully get myself back to Moscow, and all the way from Moscow to Irkutsk in one very smelly, tired, jetlagged, happy piece... The train itself was fairly decent by Russian standards, though I expect it was probably built sometime in the mid-1970's...

The trip, all 5000 km or so of it, has entirely reaffirmed my belief that trains are in fact the best way to to travel. In the space of 3 days and four nights I managed to make friends with a WONDFERUL German couple, a pair of amazingly friendly (and exceedingly beautiful) Swedish girls, a Canadian girl from Vancouver (It's a very small world...), a satellite electrical engineer and his girlfriend on Vacation from Moscow, a trio of extremely drunk Latvians on their way east after two weeks of camping and hunting in the depths of Siberia, and a Tibetan/Russian martial arts Master who could (disturbingly accurately) read peoples palms... The latter, named Yuri, was my roommate for two nights. More on him later...

The German couple I mentioned, Miriam and Roland, a pair of social workers from Frankfurt quite brilliantly had the foresight to bring along a squeegee to try and clean the windows on the train in order to get a better view (When we boarded in Moscow the windows of our car were so caked with mud that we could hardly see outside at all, let along enjoy the scenery)... After nearly 10 minutes of scrubbing with soap and water the windows were sadly just as dirty as they were when we left Moscow.

(Below: Roland made a valiant attempt to clean the windows of his and Miriam's cabin. He received quite a few very strange looks from the babushkas on the platform, and many of the Russian passengers, largely because cleaning is a "Woman's job" in Russia. For a man to pick up a bucket of soap and water is practically unheard of... Miriam is in the background, holding a bottle of soapy water and looking on in amusement.)

The air-conditioning in my carriage broke on the first day, and the rising temperature (I clocked it at 35 degrees in my cabin) forced most of the people in the car I was in into the halls, where we staged a small coup and forced open several windows and jammed or tied them open with empy pop bottles and some string... Quite a few people in my carriage, including Pavel, the aforementioned satellite electrical enginner, went shirtless for much of the trip.

(Below: The ever-cheerful Pavel. His girlfriend, Olga, took more pictures than I did. Both were quite excited to see Siberia for the first time.)
(Below: Olga, beer in-hand and camera hanging from her wrist, at one of the many stops. Babushkas selling a variety of (to Canadian's) unimaginable foods, are in the background.)
The Swedish girls I met were perhaps one of the more random encounters I had along the way. I said hi to them after hearing two of them speaking English in the corridor of the train. (While many russians speak a few words, or even have basic English down pat, it's tough to find fluent English-speakers.)... One of the girls, Maria, a social worker (yes, another social worker) from Sweden and I ended up chatting for a few hours afterwards... Later that day I was distracted from the book I was reading (Eugene Onegin, by Alexander Pushkin. HIGHLY reccomended to any fans of literature.) by Maria asking me if I could "be her hero" ... One does not often get asked to be the hero of tall, blonde, and beautiful Swedish girls, so I of course obliged... Turns out she'd accidentally deleted all of her holiday photos from her digital camera and I was the only person on the train with a laptop and a copy of Lexar's PhotoRescue software (a rather handy piece of professional software sold with Lexar-brand memory cards and used specifically to recover deleted and damaged photos from memory cards...) ... 90 minutes of image-recovery later and I found myself one friend richer in the most unexpected manner. I was shortly introduced to the rest of the Swedish contingent, including Lousie, a teacher. The two together were irrepressably cheerful, and I spent a good portion of the rest of the train trip hanging out with them in the dining car.

(Below: Maria (left) and Louise at one of the many small stations along the trans-siberian.)
There were countless other interesting, friendly, and in general quite amazing characters on the trans-sib, but the last I'll have time to mention in this post is my roommate for more than half of the trip, Yuri:

Yuri arrived in my cabin on the third night of the trip at around 11PM in Novosibirsk. He seemed quite friendly at first, and it didn't take us long to determine that he knew even less English than I did Russian. Yuri's spoken vocabulary consisted of "Sit down please" and "Kung Fu", the latter of which I quickly learned he was actually an avid practitioner of... I learned very quickly that when the English phrase "Kung Fu" was uttered, it was often followed by a brief demonstration of one of the several martial arts that Yuri was quite proficient in. After the second or third such demonstration I learned to step back, very quickly (though often not quickly enough) whenever Yuri decided to talk about his profession...

Over the course of the next two days we managed to communicate basic information about each other through the use of several Russian/English bilingual people on board the train (Pavel and Olga, my next-door neighbours, being the most prominent among these.) ... Seems Yuri runs several martial arts schools across Russia, has just returned(brand new iPod in hand) from opening one in Atlanta, Georgia as well. I was somewhat skeptical at first, until he produced both business cards (bearing his name, and the title "Master of Asian Martial Arts" and several rather official-looking certification cards that, from what little Russian I know, I managed to gather were "Master" certifications in various martial arts... One of his other skills that I, as well as my Swedish friends, were introduced to, was his ability to read palms with (in my case) rather disturbing accuracy. Several of us (myself, the Swedish girls, another Canadian named Natalie, and a few Russians) were treated to a demonstration of Yuri's prophetic skills.

(Below: On the third day of the trip Yuri (left) joined several of us, including Maria (right) in the dining car and offered to tell our fortunes. Most of the westerners received somewhat similar news: None of us have any love in our lives. Similarities aside, a few of the details Yuri managed to conjur up were a tad closer to home than would be expected, especially given that he didn't share a language with more than half of us... )
I'm now several hundred rubles in debt to the internet cafe that I'm writing this post from, and need to find some food for my rather vocal stomach. I'll leave my more dedicated readers with a view of a Siberian sunset. Suffice it to say that most of what we've heard about Siberia in Canada is only true during the winter (I think) and that this place really is one of the more beautiful corners of the world that I've visited...

(Below: A Siberian sunset, shot through an open window on the train.)




7.19.2007

Another day, another hurried blog post from a Russian train station...

... That may not be QUITE how the old saying goes, but it's certainly a decent approximation of my life these days...

St. Petersburg itself was absolutely amazing, and I really do reccomend anyone and everyone who has the opportunity to visit to do so. The city is the cleanest European city I've stepped foot in in my life, the people are amazingly friendly and warm, accomodation and food are both cheap (compared to Moscow at least.) and the scenery is amazing. The Hermitage alone needs a week, at least, to go through. I'm sad to be leaving so soon, and really do think I'll try and spend the better part of a month in St. P. the next time I'm in this neck of the woods...

I'm back in Moscow right now after 3 days and two night in St. Petersburg, and am currently waiting for train 006 to take me from Moscow to Irkutsk. The trip is about 4500 km and will take 3 days and 4 nights. If all goes according to plan I'll leave Moscow at 9:35PM tonight and will step off the train at 5:13 AM local-time in Irkutsk on July 23... What I'm going to DO in Irkutsk at 5AM remains to be seen, as I doubt I'll be able to show up at my hostel until 9 or 10AM at least... I'm sure I'll find something to entertain myself with...

That's it for now. I'm still hopeful that I'll be able to find wifi in Irkutsk (hopefully at my hostel) so I can throw a few pictures up.

7.15.2007

One the move again...

This will be, as my last several updates have been, brief. My apologies again to those of you wanting some more in-depth information and/or pictures. Considering it's size, finding wireless internet in Moscow (especially near my hotel) is ridiculously difficult, meaning that these last few updates have been written on cyber-cafe computers, surrounded by 13 year-old boys playing Counter-Strike the like...

Moscow has been wonderful, and I really am a bit sad that I'm not staying longer. The city is gorgeous, the history here is astounding, and the people really are some of the friendliest I've met thus far... Highlights from the city have included eating a cheeseburger in front of Lenin's tomb, before bribing my way in just after closing (it seemed appropriate) and spending an afternoon reading a good book under a tree in Alexander's Garden, just behind the Kremlin.

On a more somber note, I spent half a day and visited Mitinskoya Cemetary, where the Chernobyl Heroes are buried. The monument above their graves is one of the most potent I've seen in the post-soviet states since I arrived. The monument itself is in the shape of a giant mushroom cloud. Standing in front of it a lone bronze figure, with radiation burns across his face, shields the 28 graves of the heroes from the radiation...

The Web informs me that my hostel in St. Petersburg has internet access. I should have a bit of time there to sit down and write some more, and if it's wifi, even post a few pictures from Moscow.

7.10.2007

A McDonalds Cheeseburger in Red Square...

Dear Diary,

Today I ate a McDonalds cheeseburger in front of Lenin's tomb...

...

If I kept a diary, I think that would likely be one of the more bizarre entries for the week... This statement does, of course, mean that I've arrived mostly-safely in Moscow, and (after being evicted from one set of accomodations at 6PM on my first day here... It's a long story...) am now happily residing at a place called the Hotel Altai. I haven't had a chance to grab GPS coordinates yet, but I'll try and have them by the next time I post. Pictures are also in the works, though I can't find any wireless internet access in Moscow, and thus can't upload pictures as easily as I'd like... They're coming, I promise. This post, for the same reason, will have to be brief. Suffice it to say that I've arrived, have stood in Red Square (McDonalds cheeseburger in hand, no less) and am already happily darting around the town on the Moscow metro. My tickets to both St. Petersburg and Irkutsk (Eastern Siberia) are booked, and I'll be heading out of Moscow in 5 days or so.

7.04.2007

My SportsShooter.com page has been updated...

This is just a brief note to tell everyone that my SportsShooter.com profile page has been updated with some more Chernobyl work. As always, I'd love some (hopefully constructive) criticism.

7.02.2007

Got Milk?

My most sincere apologies to those of you who have complained about my somewhat infrequent blog posts over the last week. Things have been at once remarkably busy, and remarkably quiet. I've spent another two days inside the exclusion zone, one of which was spent entirely in Pripyat. I've had a few "down" days, getting a bit of rest, and had a few more days of driving around and talking to people. I've also tracked down a few people in Moscow that I've been trying to find for a long time, and have booked my train tickets into Russia (I leave Ukraine July 7 and arrive in Russia on July 8).

Most of today's work revolved around talking with an old couple living in a small town near Ivankiv. They've been pretty heavily photographed by other shooters over the years, but they were neat to go and talk to, and were wonderfully friendly. Vladimir and I arrived just in time to meet their cow as she returned from pasture and got milked.

(Below: Got Milk? An old couple's cow stops to say hi on her way back to the barn.)


(Below: Some more time in Pripyat let me check out School #2. I seem to recall that MY high-school classrooms felt a lot like this when I was a student.)


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Nic's Current Location:
Yaroslavna Hotel, Vasilkiv, Kyiv, Ukraine
+50° 10' 43.11", +30° 18' 49.24"

6.24.2007

"Look on my works, ye mighty, and despair!"

It's awfully cliched, I'm sure, but Shelley's verse kept running through my head today as I clambered my way through the ruins of Pripyat, the largest town that was evacuated following the Chernobyl disaster. Vladimir and I got word early in the morning that we would have access today and, after a few more problems with the van, made our way out to the Exclusion Zone. (For some background reading on the Exlcusion Zone, what it is, and how it functions, I reccomend, as always, Wikipedia's article, available here.)

Stops today included an old Kindergarten outside of Chernobyl, which used to be for the children of the village of Kopachi, one of the towns inside the zone. Stop number two was Reactor 4 itself, though you can only get within about 100 meters or so. Our guide helpfully informed us that the electrified fence around it actually carries enough current to kill a person.

(Below: An industrial garage located directly beside the reactor.)


(Below: Reactor 4. I got much closer than this, but liked the radiation warning sign in the foreground with this shot.)


Later stops included the tallest building in Pripyat, a 16-story apartment complex that's been heavily looted. The view from the top is amazing though, and was well worth the climb. I also spent some time in the Pripyat Kindergarten and the "Palace of Culture" in the town square, which included a movie theatre, stage theatre (complete with lights still hung on the pipes at stage-level) a library (I snagged a copy of "Reminiscences about Vladimir Ilyich Ulyanov Lenin".) and a gymnasium with a tree growing through the floor.

(Below: One of the classrooms in Pripyat Kindergarten.)


(Below: Detail of a bear on the ground at the Pripyat Kindergarten.)


(Below: The gymnasium at the Palace of Culture.)


I've got a bit of a headache and a dry throat, as does Vladimir. Our guide had one too, and helpfully informed us that it was "quite normal" after 6 hours inside the 10km Zone... A brief Wikipedia search seems to indicate that I probably received a radiation dose somewhere between 0.5 and 1.0 Sieverts (or 50 - 100 REM). I should feel fine by morning, and am somewhat comforted in the knowledge that most of the plant workers receive this level of radiation on a daily basis while at work.

I expect to be making at least another two trips into the zone, but likely not in nearly as heavily contaminated areas.

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Nic's Current Location:
Yaroslavna Hotel, Vasilkiv, Kyiv, Ukraine
+50° 10' 43.11", +30° 18' 49.24"

6.21.2007

Digging in for some work...

I’m writing this blog entry from the passenger seat of a Ford Transit diesel-powered delivery van with a leaky windshield, leaky brake—line (we have to top up the brake fluid every few days when it starts to run low), a leaky front tire (also topped up every 48 hours or so) and a second-hand alternator that was installed two days ago after the first one literally fell off it’s mount. Vladimir, my fixer, is driving south towards Kyiv on the M01 E95 highway, going 120 k/h in an 80 zone; we’ve already bribed our way out of one speeding ticket earlier in the day.

There are no seatbelts.

I love my job.

(Below: Vladimir and a mechanic at a garage in Ivankiv, 120km outside of Kiev, debate the best course of action after the van's alternator decided to stop ... um... alternating.)


I spent almost all of today in Slavutych, the small town built to house all of the Chernobyl workers once the town of Chernobyl became contaminated following the 1986 disaster. Today it’s almost entirely inhabited by current plant workers, people who work other jobs inside The Zone, and the few people who provide support services (shops, restaurants, etc.) to them. Today was probably the most successful 12 hours I’ve spent in Ukraine. We decided to head to Slavutych today after an abysmal day yesterday wandering around the outskirts of The Zone on the west side of the Dnieper river. We had originally planned to spend the whole day inside the exclusion zone, but the cops who were supposed to be “arranging” for our access all got dragged into a big raid on some scrap-metal salvagers that had just been caught. Instead, we ended up driving through villages, shooting abandoned farms and houses, and chatting with a few people along the way. It wasn’t nearly as productive as I’d hoped, but it was good in it’s own way, and allowed me to work through a few things in my head that I really needed to sort out.

Today was different. Vladimir and I both slept in by accident and woke up at 9:30 instead of the planned 7:30, then managed to get stuck in traffic on the way out of Kyiv. We arrived in Slavutych after nearly 2 ½ hours of driving (As I write this, V informs me that we’ve driven 1730 km together since I got here last Saturday.) After a quick lunch in Slavutych we took a brief wander around the town to the memorial for fallen firefighters located in the town square; from there we decided to start wandering and interviewing random people in the hopes of finding someone with a good story to tell.


(Below: Two images showing different sides of the memorial to the firefighters who were at Chernobyl the day of the disaster and later died.)


It didn’t take long to persuade a couple of women sitting on a park bench enjoying the warm, breezy afternoon to start telling us their experiences. One old woman named, Mira, started crying as she remembered what life used to be like in Pripyat. “The best place in the world to live” seems to be the best way paraphrase how most people here remember the old town. Later in the day, when we saw her for a second time, she presented me with a book she was given several years ago: “The Chernobyl Atomic Power Plant at the end of the Millenium” … She inscribed “To the memory of future generations. May this never happen again in any place.” in Russian on the front page for me…

(Below: An electronic sign at the Slavutych train station helpfully informs passers-by that they are receiving 14.4 micro-Roentgens of radiation per hour.)


Following our chats with her, we spent a few hours hanging out at the train station in Slavutych grabbing random people as they walked off the train and asking them to tell their stories. Two particularly interesting ones agreed, including an engineer who’s 15 year-old daughter is heading to the US for surgery to repair cataracts in about a month.

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Nic's Current Location:
Yaroslavna Hotel, Vasilkiv, Kyiv, Ukraine
+50° 10' 43.11", +30° 18' 49.24"

6.18.2007

Interesting times in Ukraine.

I’m writing this blog entry on my way back from my second day in Ivankiv, the largest settlement just outside the Exclusion Zone ( EZ ) around Chernobyl. My fixer, Vladimir, is an amazing asset. I doubt I’d even be able to function at all without him

(Below: Vladimir smoking on the 12th floor of an abandoned factory we climbed earlier today.)


Day 1 was spent largely getting my bearings and trying to understand how things work in Ukraine. Most people around here seem to think that traffic laws are for sissies. The driving here makes MY driving, even on deadline, seem slow and restrained. Those of you who have been in a car with me while on assignment will understand the true meaning of this statement. We did get the time to check out some interesting abandoned farm houses and barns near the EZ that were absolutely gorgeous:

(Below: A two-image stitched panorama of an abandoned farm house.)

Day 2 here was largely a bust. Some major vehicle problems this morning caused a 5-hour setback that didn’t get fully resolved until about 3PM. To make a very, very long story short, the alternator on the delivery-van Vladimir and I are driving around in blew out on us while were in Ivankiv. I can now say I’ve been stranded in a radiation-contaminated town where you don’t speak the language.

The hotel (I use the term very loosely) Vladimir and I are staying in is locaed about 30 minutes south of Kyiv. It’s a bit of a drive, and a slight pain to be so far out of town, but for about nine Canadian dollars a night, you can’t really beat the price. It’s what’s known in most Canadian cities as a “condemned building” … It’s absolutely ancient, lacks any sort of amenities at all (Hot water? Toilet paper? Shower curtain? Who needs em?!) and is generally quite disgusting. They do, however, provide lovely clean bedsheets every night, and the place is, from what I can tell, 100% bug and rodent-free.

(Below: My “hotel room” at the Yaroslavna Hotel. Note the illumination provided by the single, bare, 60W bulb.)


(Below: My bathroom at the Yaroslavna Hotel. Attention should be paid to the lack of, well, anything, really. I don’t think this bathroom has been cleaned since … well… Ever…)


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Nic's Current Location:
Yaroslavna Hotel, Vasilkiv, Kyiv, Ukraine
+50° 10' 43.11", +30° 18' 49.24"
(**NOTE** CLICK ON SATELLITE VIEW. ROAD MAPS IN GOOGLE EARTH NOT AVAILABLE FOR THIS AREA.)

6.17.2007

I've arrived.

Have arrived in Kyiv. This post will be short as internet access is... spotty... Updates shortly.

(Below: Sign on the fence of the Chernobyl Exclusion Zone checkpoint.)


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Nic's Current Location:
Yaroslavna Hotel, Vasilkiv, Kyiv, Ukraine
+50° 10' 43.11", +30° 18' 49.24"
(**NOTE** CLICK ON SATELLITE VIEW. ROAD MAPS IN GOOGLE EARTH NOT AVAILABLE FOR THIS AREA.)

6.14.2007

Leaving Hungary...

As of 6:15 PM this Friday, June 15, I'll be leaving Budapest and heading in to Kyiv to start shooting Chernobyl. I haven't a clue what my internet access there will be like, but I suspect it won't be nearly as convenient as what I have right now (Wifi in-house at my nephew Tristan's place, where I'm staying) so those of you who have been in regular contact with me, please don't expect me to be too prompt with my email replies.

Budapest has been AMAZING, and I'm really quite sad that I have to leave tomorrow. There's been no shortage of interesting things to keep me occupied during my stay. I've climbed Gellert Hill (Among other things, an old WWII fortress, but with evidence of use dating back to 1200BC and the Celts.), wandered through St. Stephen's Basilica (Szent István-bazilika in Hungarian) seen his mummified hand in a shrine. (The church keeps it in a reliquary at the back of the basilica. The hand is kept in the dark unless you put 100 Forints ($0.75 CDN or so) into a small machine to one side. Once you've paid up, a light comes on illuminating the hand for 60 seconds or so. If you want more time to pray to it, you need to pay more.) The rest of the Basilica is absolutely GORGEOUS, and quite honestly blows St. Paul's in London clear out of the water. Even Notre Dame in Paris couldn't hold a candle up to what they've got here in Budapest.

(Below: St. Stephen's Basilica, as seen from the apse, looking down the nave towards the altar.)


I've tried, twice, to visit the Hungarian Parliament and take a guided tour of the place, but haven't been able to swing it unfortunately. I'll have to do it next time I'm in town.

Other highlights here have included Statue Park, or Szoborpark, is a park just outside of Budapest proper where a large number of old Soviet-era statues have been "retired" ... Personally I think it was a true stroke of genius, saving all of them and making a park out of them. It's an AMAZING place, and well worth a visit if any of you reading this ever happen to make your way to Budapest. This is definitely on my list of places to come back to. I'd love to spend a few days working on a photo essay here. Sadly, I only had an hour before I had to hop back on my bus and head back in to town.

(Below: "Liberation Monument" which used to stand at the top of Gellert Hill.)



Last but not least on my itinerary for the week was a visit to the Children's Railroad, a small-gauge rail-line operated almost entirely by children. Apparently these things were quite common during the soviet days, and a quick google search reveals that there are several still in operation, though the Budapest one is still, from what I can find, the largest and most successful of the ones that remain. It took me an hour or so to find my way to Széchenyi-hegy (I believe, but am not sure, that "hegy" means "station" or "stop"). From there I took the train to János-hegy, then got off, walked for a while, and took a chair-lift back down to the city before busing home. The railway is another thing I'd love to come back and spend a week or two shooting as a documentary project. The kids are AMAZING, they literally do everything except drive the train itself (a job reserved for adults only), though, as the picture below illustrates, boredom does strike at times.

(Below: A young ticket-inspector takes a break from his duties to admire the scenery on the trip from Széchenyi-hegy to János-hegy.)



That's all for now. I'll do what I can to post an update or two once I've arrived in Kyiv, but I make no promises. I'm flying solo from Budapest on (That is, I've had wonderful friends and family putting me up until now) so things should get a bit more ... interesting... as I progress east.

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Nic's Current Location:
Tristan and Krisztina Hume's Apartment, Budapest, Hungary
+47° 29' 25.43", +19° 4' 6.08"

6.10.2007

A week of Cryptographers, Crepes, and Trains.

It's been the better part of a week since my last "real" update. My apologies...

Before leaving London I got to take a day-trip out to Milton Keynes, where Bletchley Park is located. Those of you not familiar with the Park's history really should be. Wikipedia article is here. I had an AMAZING time out there, and even got to see a full-size, *FUNCTIONING* replica of Colossus, the world's first electronic computer. (It's existence has only been recently declassified, and ENIAC, in the US, was incorrectly regarded as the first until recently. Colussus pre-dated ENIAC by two or so years.) I had a WONDERFUL chat with one of the engineers who have been rebuilding Colossus, and managed to get myself some paper-tape from a bona-fide Lorenz 40/42 Cipher being cracked by the machine. Interestingly enough, due to the parallel architecture used by Colossus, it still breaks codes as fast, and sometimes faster, as modern-day computers running software to crack the same 1943 ciphers. Astounding. I'll spare you all the technical details, but suffice it to say this is one of the few computers I've seen in my life that I've ever truly been in awe of.

(Below: Nic with Colossus)


Other treats before I departed London included going to see Othello as a groundling at Shakespeare's globe, which I now count as one of the highlights of my theatre-going career. Met up with my friends dan and Laura for what was supposed to be *A* pint, but turned into several, at the Founders Arms, on the Thames, following the performance. I also managed to cram in a quick visit to King's Cross, platform 9 3/4. Those of you who get the reference will, I hope, be pleasantly amused.

(Below: Platform 9 3/4.)


Packed up and snuck out of Robyn and Jamie's place early on Friday morning and hopped the train in to Waterloo. Went through the most thorough security search of my life when I was told my backpack was "packed too densely" for the security x-ray to scan it properly. Spent 45 minutes standing beside a nice security who was was emptying everything (and I do mean EVERYTHING) out onto a steel table. I did get a good laugh when he sniffed the two jars of Veggemite I was taking to my nephew Tristan in Budapest. The stuff is concentrated yeast extract, and smells about as pleasant as you'd expect.

Wrote a small snippet of this blog while I was on the train... I managed to snag GPS coordinates here, at +51° 5' 43.86", +1° 2' 11.20", shortly before entering the Chunnel, and another set of coords here, +50° 39' 35.21", +3° 1' 27.78", shortly after popping out on the other side, in France.

Spent the afternoon in Paris, with visits to Notre Dame and the Eiffel Tower both on the to-do list, as well as a brief detour into some obscure back alleys in le Quatier Latin, to get away from all the touristy crap and kitsch. Walked about 10 minutes and did everything I could to get myself lost in back alleys. Ended up having an awesome lunch at a tiny little crepes restaurant (for lack of a better word) about the size of my bathroom back home in Victoria. The place was so small that I actually couldn't turn around inside with my backpack on. Had to back out once I'd bought my food. The woman who worked there was absolutely THRILLED to have someone as "exotique" as a Canadian in her store. Had two ham and cheese crepes for lunch, with a Nutella crepe for desert. Spent an hour or so reading on the banks of the Seine, then went off to the Eiffel Tower. Was rather annoyed to find multiple-hour-long lineups to get up the thing, AND was told that even if I waited, I wouldn't be allowed up with my backpack due to security concerns. Went across the Seine to la Place de Varsovie, only to find an "Experience Rugby" event going on. Seems someone had the bright idea of bringing in artificial turf, inflatable bumpers, and several tents, and holding a rugby tournament in the middle of Paris. What can I say? It seemed like a pretty cool idea, really, and it looked like everyone was having a blast, to say the least.

(Below: Rugby in la Place de Varsovie. It is, indeed, a strange world.)



Just chilled out for the evening in Paris, then caught the night train to Munich at 10:45 from Gare de l'Est. For the sake of brevity (i.e. I'm tired right now) suffice it to say the transfer through Munich was uneventful, and I made it all the way in to Budapest without too many hassles. Got to see some gorgeous scenery along the way as well, which was great. Snagged one more set of GPS coordinates here, at +48° 11' 32.15", +16° 18' 47.17", on the way into Wien, en-route to Budapest. Was met by my nephew Tristan at the train station, showered at his place (where I'm staying for the week) then went out and was ... errr... warmly introduced... to the city. Having a wonderful time here thus far, but will have more updates once I've explored a bit tomorrow.

(Below: One last picture. Heroes Square, +47° 30' 52.80", +19° 4' 39.02", (Wikipedia link here) in Budapest.)


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Nic's Current Location:
Tristan and Krisztina Hume's Apartment, Budapest, Hungary
+47° 29' 25.43", +19° 4' 6.08"

6.09.2007

New post? Not quite...

Have safely arrived in Budapest.

I had many grand plans to write a nice long new post detailing my last days in London and my 48 hour (quite interesting) journey to Budapest via Paris, as well as my adventures with Chunnel security and what it's like to watch a rugby tournament taking place in the middle of a Paris street.

Sadly (well, not really) my plans have been delayed as my most wonderful nephew Tristan has gotten me quite drunk on Hungarian beer and German Jagermeister as a welcome to the country. I promise I'll update tomorrow. (Depending on how bad the hangover is.)

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Nic's Current Location:
Tristan and Krisztina Hume's Apartment, Budapest, Hungary
+47° 29' 25.43", +19° 4' 6.08"

6.05.2007

A bit of history, and a good view...

Spent most of the daytime today in the Imperial War Museum. It's awfully similar to the way I remember it being when I was here last (1998 or so) but it's still an incredible place to simply wander through. The Secret War exhibit, which deals with everything from codebreaking to special forces black ops, was particularly interesting; The twin 15" canons mounted in the park directly in front of the museum were quite a bit more intimidating than I had recalled. Awe-inspiring might be a better word.

Took a walk up to The Canada Store (Yes, that's it's name, though it plays triple-duty as "The Australian Store" and "The South African store") to pick up some Vegemite for my nephew Tristan in Budapest, which is where I'm off to on Friday. (Note: Who knew that you could buy Vegemite in 1kg bulk containers?)

From there I walked down towards the River and met up with a friend of Robyn's named Michelle and hung out with her for a bit (Why do I always meet beautiful, intelligent women when I'm about to LEAVE a city?) before meeting up with Robyn and Jamie and heading up the London Eye. There's a GORGEOUS view (as you'd expect) from the top; the whole thing's a bit pricey, but a damn neat experience, and not like anything else I've ever done.

(Below: View of the Houses of Parliament, and Big Ben, from the top of the London Eye.)

Am off to bed now, but will endeavour to post here more regularly when I can.

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Nic's Current Location:
Robyn Goodman's House, Sevenoaks, Kent, England.
N+51° 16' 42.16", W+0° 10' 44.09"

6.04.2007

A late update...

So a number of you, most notably my dad, have been harassing me for a blog update. It's late here, and I'm exhausted, but here you go. Things have been exceedingly busy for the last week. Most of my time in Vancouver was spent doing last-minute odds-and-ends work on packing, lightening my pack (I ditched most of my cold-weather gear, contact lens solution, and DVD's, but cut down almost 20 pounds) and the like. Got on the plane with no problem at all, even though my checked baggage was STILL overweight at 23kg, and my carry-on must have been 20 lbs at least, well over the 5lb maximum... Regardless, I got on OK. Had all my gear serial numbers recorded by Canada Customs so I can get back into the country without being charged tax on my own gear. When I offered to unpack my bag and let the customs officer check the numbers she just told me it "looked like it was all old" and not to worry about it... Go figure. (Above: St. Paul's Cathedral at Sunset, as seen from Shakespeare's Globe, across the river Thames.)

Arrived in London with relatively few complications, was treated to a WONDERFUL dinner by Robyn's new in-laws who are, quite possibly, the nicest people I've ever met. Have spent my first few days in London exploring the Fleet Street area of town, in particular a "small" church called St. Bride's, (There's a half-decent Wikipedia article here as well.) which calls itself "...the spiritual home of printing & the media." It's a wonderful place that was designed by Christopher Wren, in the late 1600's, though parts of the crypt and foundations date back to the first century and earlier. They've actually created a small chapel in the crypt, so that services can be held in the same place they were 2000 years ago. Pretty neat if you ask me.

I'm PRETTY sure this is the place Matt Lambert told me about several months ago, with a spiral stair-case up the spire and a great view of St. Paul's, but they wouldn't let me go up it without having arranged something well before-hand. Perhaps next time I visit...

(Below: St. Bride's is the tall steeple on the left. Fleet street can be seen on the right-hand side.)

Other highlights while I've been here have included climbing the great fire Monument, and getting all the way to the top of St. Paul's Cathedral (600-and-something steps... Yeesh...), having beer in a pub called Seven Stars that's been around since 1602, and seeing The Merchant of Venice at Shakespeare's Globe...

(Below: Seven Stars. Note the "A.D. 1602" at the top of the sign.)

Plan on heading to the War Museum and the London Eye tomorrow, have also booked my tickets to Bletchley Park on Wednesday, my Othello groundling ticket for Thursday, and my train tickets to Budapest (with a half-day in Paris, and a transfer in Munich) as well.

That's all for now, It's 1:30 here and I need to be up in 6 hours. My apologies if I'm slightly less than coherent in this post, it's been a long, long week...

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Nic's Current Location: Robyn Goodman's House; Sevenoaks, Kent. UK.
+51° 16' 42.64", +0° 10' 43.69"

5.28.2007

Off the grid and gone...


So, I'm gone... Or at least, I've left Victoria and I'm in Vancouver and I'm only semi-connected to the world... For the first time since I was 17 or so I don't have a cell phone and it's really, REALLY strange...

I said goodbye to my dad this morning (picture above) at the Schwartz Bay ferry terminal hopped on the 11AM boat out of Victoria, hit the mainland right on schedule at 12:35 and then spent four hours busing and walking around Richmond and downtown Vancouver picking my D200 from Nikon (it feels *SO* good to have a "real" camera back in my hands. My backup D80 just wasn't cutting it...) and picking up my British passport from Visa Connection with my Russian and Mongolian visas in it. My backpack weighs in at around 80 pounds or so, by my best guess, with my camera bag adding another 25 to that. (I know that sounds a lot, but that's still well under 1/3 of my body-weight, which, as I understand it, is the recommended max weight for a pack)... Amazingly enough it didn't actually feel very heavy at all once I got it up on my shoulders and had all the straps adjusted... I wouldn't want to walk for 8 hours with it, but that's more because I'm in bad shape and my legs would get tired rather than from any discomfort. The biggest problem I had (and it wasn't REALLY a problem) is that with my camera bag slung across my body UNDER the backpack straps, the camera-bag strap digs in a bit, and is much harder to adjust than when I don't have the backpack on. Hardly critical, but a mild nuisance...

The overall experience was good, as it was handy to see how well I could move around with all my gear. Aside from being firmly reminded of exactly HOW out-of-shape I am, I'm quite pleased with everything. The gear is heavy, but quite manageable, and I'm quite sure I'd be able to run short distances with it if necessary (One of my hard-and-fast rules is that I'll never go traveling/on-assignment with gear that I can't run with, or abandon, should the need arise...)

I'm at my brother Mark's house now, and am relaxing a bit before doing some invoicing and then going for a beer with my friend Kirsti, who I haven't seen in almost a year (She was an ASM at last year's Shakespeare in the Summer festival in Victoria. I was, for a time, the Technical Director of said festival...)

My plans for tomorrow involve a beach, a book, and my D200. (Hopefully some cute girls as well, but I'll have to play that bit by ear...)


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Nic's Current Location:
Mark Hume's House, Vancouver, Canada
+49° 14' 46.69"N, -123° 10' 10.30"W

5.24.2007

A brief update on my itinerary...

Yes, it's been AGES since I posted.

Yes, that makes me a bad person.

Yes, I'm cross-posting a facebook post because I'm rushed for time. Sorry. There will be more soon. (In more recent news, I just got word, as I was typing this, that my Mongolian visa has been OK'd... Hooray!)

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I've been getting piles and PILES of people asking where I'm going, how long I'm gone for, etc. etc. etc. over the last few weeks... I hardly mind explaining my travel plans to people, but after the 30th or 40th time, it gets a bit old... SO... Here's what I'm doing, where I'm going, and all that... You can keep track of my on my blog and webpage if you're so inclined...

As most of you know, I was laid off from the Times Colonist at the end of February, 2007. Not having much of a freelance editorial market in Victoria, I figured now would be a GREAT time to take off and visit some places and do some work that I've always wanted to. Chernobyl seemed like a good idea, and I've always been quite curious about the area and it's stories) ... After getting myself vaguely set-up to visit the worlds only urban nuclear disaster area, I figured a brief jaunt up to Russia would be in order... From there I got hooked on the idea of taking the Trans-Siberian (Technically Trans-Manchurian in my case) Railroad across the continent, and ending up in Mongolia for a month, before progressing on to China... After that, and seeing as I'd be in "that corner of the world" I figured a stint down to Vietnam, Cambodia and Thailand would be in order too. Laos is supposed to be nice that time of year as well...

After South Asia, I've got two options:
a) If I'm utterly travel-weary and exhausted, I'll head home.
b) If I'm having a blast and not burned out, I'll keep heading south.

If I take option A, I plan on hitching a ride on a freighter over to Vancouver... if I choose option B then I expect I'll head down through the Indies, into Australia, then New Zealand, then catch a freighter from THERE over to Punta Arenas or somewhere near the south end of South America, and work my way back north from there... If I can find a way to go anywhere NEAR Antarctica at the same time, I'd love to do that too. We'll see...

I've got a very rough travel itinerary that gets me as far as Thailand so far. The dates are as follows:

June 1: Fly Vancouver --> London England. Get put up by exceedingly generous friends, try and network a bit, and visit some old friends.

June 8-ish: Train to Budapest via Paris. Spend some time in Budapest visiting my nephew (who is also generously putting me up)

June 16: Kiev. Spend 3 1/2 weeks in Kiev and Chernobyl doing documentary work around the old reactor and the surrounding area.

July 7: Leave for St. Petersburg. Most "tourist" stuff here, though I hope to find some interesting stuff to shoot as well.

July 14: Moscow. A few tidbits of remaining doc. work on Chernobyl. There are some cemeteries and memorials I want to visit, and one survivor in particular I want to try and track down.

July 21-ish: Trans-siberian express to Irkutsk. Possible stop in Yeketarinburg. End up in Irkutsk.

August 4: Enter Mongolia. 1 month based in / around Ulan Bataar. Hope to get out into the Gobi for a bit just to check it out. May try for a train-trip to Uliastay. We'll see.

September 1: China. Have a dual-entry visa. Expect to only stay a month, and want to hit Beijing, Shanghai, Hong Kong, and (somehow) see the Three Gorges dam as well.

September 29-ish: Vietnam: No plans beyond staying a month. Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City are both (obviously) on the list.

Late October: Cambodia. Ditto to Thailand re: no specific plans. Will see what haapens.

November: Thailand or Laos.

Things get awfully fuzzy from here on in. I'm not about to try and plan things beyond 6 months out. I'm QUITE confident in my own ability to find trouble / end up in the middle of a civil war / get arrested / whatever.

So. There you have it. That's where I'll be. If anyone feels like joining up with me along the way, feel free to drop me a line (nic@nichume.com, or facebook, are the best ways to reach me these days. Obviously my cell phone and land-lines are NOT the best ways to reach me.)

5.10.2007

New toys, plans, and all that jazz...

I have, again, been up to my eyeballs this last week with work, planning, organizing, phoning, emailing, and all that other ... stuff... that goes along with leaving a place for 6 months or more...

I had my first dental exam in far FAR too long done today, $200 down the drain, but it was worth it to know that I likely won't need any work done by Siberian dentists... not that I have anything AGAINST Siberian dentists, if there are any reading this, but I'd feel more comfortable having my own dentist work on me. As it turns out, my OLD dentist has retired since the last time I went to visit and his practice has been bought out by a new guy, Dr. Krieger. Seemed like a very nice chap all in all, though a couple of his dental assistants were a bit shy on the experience side (Having the person polishing your teeth talking to another person and commenting on how exciting it is to polish teeth because she "almost never gets to to do this" doesn't do a lot to instill confidence in me, but I survived, and everyone was quite nice and competent, so ...

My dad returned home on Friday from a few weeks in the UK doing family research and the like. We've jumped straight back into a routine of doing Hume & Hume's as fast as we can to get a nice buffer built up before I leave the country... There's a few fun / interesting characters coming up, so it'll be a nice change from politicians too (not that I mind politicians, but it's nice to get some variety :) )

As far as travel stuff goes, I've had a few minor-to-major developments as well. Notably, I now have a new backpack that actually fits me properly... it's an 85L Osprey Aether (The Osprey website is kinda broken, but you can at least see the thing) and I swear I don't even know I'm wearing it, even with 60 lbs or weight in the thing... I'm also well on the way to having some customized GPS software that's more suited to the type of application that I want. A friend of mine, Evan Willms, is coding it for me in exchange for my Lego Mindstorms NXT set, that I never had the chance to play with anyway. Basically the program is a fairly simple/small/light app. that spurts out GPS coordinates in a Google Maps URL so they can be easily incorporated as a link into my blog posts. Check out the bottom of this post for an example. It's pretty spiffy really. He's also got the thing rigged up to record trip-data while I'm offline, and output KML files that can be dumped into GoogleEarth later on if I want...

I've also finally made solid contact with Don Weber's fixer, Vladimir, in Ukraine. He seems like quite a nice guy, and has asked me to try and bring some Kraft Dinner cheese packets and Pepsi along with me when I go. Apparently neither of these things are readily available in Ukraine... It seems a BIT odd to me to be, in effect, including KD Cheese as part of a payment to get me Exclusion Zone access, but I think it's a good sign that this guy is on the same wavelength as me. I like him already :)

On a final note, I've finally set a good-bye party date... May 25th, at the Union Pacific (see map below...) ... Jimmy, the owner, has agreed to go so far as to post a world map and track my progress with pins while I'm gone... I think it's his way of keeping track of how long his primary source of revenue will be out-of-country, but it's kinda cool too...

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Nic's Current Location:
Union Pacific Coffee, Victoria, B.C.
+48° 25' 48.40", -123° 22' 6.59"

5.02.2007

Life is too busy...

I've been lax about posting here lately, largely because I've been running my head off all over the place for the last week or two. I was in Vancouver over the weekend attending the WCNPA conference there, then up in Kelowna visiting an old friend for an evening, then back in Victoria and straight into a couple of days of work at the Metro... Throw in trip planning, an insane 23-hour day at the beginning of last week, a smattering of shoots for corporate clients, and trying to cram in errands / visits with friends while I was in Van. and you've got a pretty busy week all in all.

In the Good News category, I now have my Chinese visa in my Canadian passport, and my Russian visa in my British passport. Still waiting on the Mongolian one; it will get sent in to the embassy on May 15th, and I should hear back from them by the 23rd or so. If I *DON'T* get a visa I've decided to just drop it and head straight to China from Russia... I'm keeping my fingers crossed though...

There's been so much other ... well... stuff... going on these last few weeks that I'm not even going to try and cram it all in. None of it is particularly significant but it's totally drained me. One addition to my arsenal of gadgets that *IS* worth noting is my brand spankin' new GlobalSat USB GPS receiver. Each blog post I make from now on will include my position, down to around 50ft accuracy or so, so those of you who *ARE* interested can keep track of where I am. I'm looking for a software solution that will let me provide a link to a satellite view / map of where I am. I haven't found a simple / clean solution for that yet, so for now, you're stuck with just the numbers :)

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Nic's Current Location:
Union Pacific Coffee Company, Victoria, B.C.
48º25.81'N 123º22.08'W

4.21.2007

The trials and tribulations of facebook...

So, I finally broke down and created a facebook account about 4 or 5 days ago. It's been quite a trip down memory lane, touching base with old friends long-forgotten, and people I went to pre-school with...

It's also been a very, very sobering experience.

In the last 24 hours I've connected and reconnected with the two people I least expected, one, an old Camosun friend who shall go unnamed, has had a rough time of it since I saw him last. Health problems abound, and he's still fighting the ghosts of a failed steroid-treatment for an autoimmune neuromuscular disorder, and withdrawal from the medical morphine that was given to help him with the pain. Either of those things on their own, I suspect, would be more taxing than most of us will ever know; I feel glad that the worst I ever have to deal with is a particularly bad cold.

On the other side of things, I received a message out of the blue from a niece (by marriage), Yolanda, that I didn't know I had, and saw pictures of my two great-nephews for the first time ever... I didn't even know their names until today (Indeo and Ryven). Oddly enough, this latter connection happened through entirely non-family channels. It seems Yolanda is friends with the Cheimak family, the younger members of whom I went to SMUS with. We're going to try and set up a meeting of some kind before I leave on my trip, so I can meet Indeo and Ryven, and their dad Jubal, who I've only heard passing mention of until now.

Facebook is a strange, strange place. I've gone from getting horrible news about good friends, to being connected with "new" family in the space of one evening. I don't think I've had this much of an emotional up-and-down day in a long time.

Some days the world seems huge and daunting; others it seems so small I feel like I can just reach across it. Today's been a bit of both...